Radical Buckle Operation

Make a “peace” sign with your first and middle finger
With the tips of your fingers, press the two black levers inward simultaneously, toward the boot
While holding the levers down, pull the ladder free of the spider buckle with your free hand
When buckling up, push the ladder in as far as possible to insure proper centering.
“Ratchet” the ladder strap tight with the silver lever
Pressing one black lever at a time allows for micro loosening adjustments

What is Heat Molding and How Do I Do It?

There are two different types of heat molding processes for different K2 Skate models.

Heat Molding and Fit Instructions: Radical 100, Radical 90, and Pro Longmount

Congratulations on your decision to purchase K2 Radical skates. The R&D team at K2 believes we have created the finest blend of comfort and performance ever achieved in a high end training skate.

Radicals are designed to fit well for the vast majority of people right out of the box. However, to get the most out of these skates we recommend that you heat mold them for a custom fit and even greater skating responsiveness.

If you have any questions about this procedure, please “(contact us)” or your local K2 skate shop professional.

PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW:

Supplies:
1. Conventional oven or convection oven or ski boot liner heating stacks. (Do not use a microwave oven; it will damage the boots.
2. Thin socks
3. An assistant to help make things easier.
Boot Preparation:
1. If attached, remove the frame and mounting screws from the bottom of the boot.
2. Unzip the lace cover and loosen the laces enough to put your foot inside the boot.
Heating the Boots:
1. Turn the oven on and set it to 200F (95C). If you are using ski boot liner heating stacks consult the owner’s manual and set if for this temperature.
2. When the oven reaches 200F (95C), turn the oven off. If you are using ski boot liner heating stacks keep them running for the duration of the 10 minute heating time.
3. It is recommended that you heat and mold the boots one at a time.
4. Place a boot (without frame and mounting screws) in the center of the oven, equally spaced on all sides from the heating elements and set the timer for 10 minutes.
5. After 10 minutes the sides of the boot and ankle area should become noticeably flexible. The boot is now ready to be custom fit. Ovens may vary so please use the above time as a guideline only. If the boots are not flexible after 10 minutes then leave them in the oven for an extra 5 minutes. DO NOT increase the temperature setting. Boots that have been damaged by excessive heating from any means (heat gun, oven, heating stacks etc.) are not covered under warranty.
Molding the Boots:
1. Put on a thin sock on the foot to be molded. Take the boots out of the oven and put them on immediately. Warning - the metal eyelets, zipper handle, buckle levers etc. will be HOT to the touch! Please be careful.
2. Lace the boots until they are snug, but not as tight as one might skate in them because the leather around the eyelets can be damaged when it is warm and soft.
3. Weight the boot (stand in the basic skating position) for about 5-10 minutes to allow the boots to cool and get firm. You or your assistant should apply additional hand and finger pressure to important areas such as the heel, ankle under the cuff and sides of the arch on medial and lateral sides for the best possible molding.
4. When the boot has cooled and become stiffer and supportive (5-10 minutes) remove it and mold the other boot starting with step 2A above.
5. When you have completed both boots install your frames and wheels and go skating!

Note: It is possible to perform localized molding of certain areas with a heat gun but this procedure is difficult and risky. Using a heat gun is not recommended by K2 due to the risk of damaging synthetic boot materials from too high a setting on the heat gun or by prolonged heating in one area of the boot. Boots that have been damaged by excessive heating from any means (heat gun, oven, heating stacks, etc.) are not covered under warranty.

Heat Molding and Fit Instructions: K2 Recreational and Fitness Skates

Yes, K2 skate liners can be 'heat molded'. It only requires the use of a hair dryer.

First you'll want to remove the insole from the skates.
Heat the area causing discomfort for about three minutes, focus the hot stream of air on that local area only; hairdryer on hot setting. Frequently check the area with your fingertips...you'll want to get it quite warm, but not burn the liner (or your foot).
Once very warm, the foam in the liner will become soft and you'll be able too manipulate it easily with firm finger pressure. When it is at this state, replace the insole and insert your stockinged foot into the heated skate.
Lace it up snug, and stand in a coasting position (it helps to have both skates on) for about ten to fifteen minutes until the foam has conformed and cooled.
Repeat for other skate.
The first time you go out to skate after performing a heat mold, you should feel a big difference. Pay close attention to how they fit on your first time out. You can always go back and do a little more if necessary. You can repeat this process up to about four times before the foam is compromised.

Skate Maintenance 101

Like any high quality mechanized product, K2 Skates need some basic care to keep them up to their optimum performance level and offer maximum longevity.

These are all elements that can rob your skates of performance and durability. Keep your skates dry, clean, and wheels rotated, and you can expect many happy miles out of your skates. So here goes:

You've been out rolling on the asphalt, getting back in shape or just maintaining the great shape you are already in, and you notice that your first and last wheels have flat spots worn on the insides. This is a great time to rotate your wheels as well as get in there with a paper towel and clean up your frames, wheels, and bearings!

FIRST THE AXLES:

You'll want to get your T-handled K-Tool hex wrench and loosen your axle screws or threaded axle shafts. Remove the axles and pull the wheels out of the frame. We find it's best to lay them out in order (first wheel through last) on an old newspaper. Now wipe out those frames really well with the paper towel.

Okay, now for the wheels and bearings. Let's keep those wheels in order!

THE BEARINGS NEXT:

If you have K2 skates with 5mm black steel axles (the diameter is smaller than a #2 pencil), the bearings can be removed by using the 'stepped down' end of the K-Tool Handle. Just push the middle of a bearing and the other bearing will pop out the other side of the wheel.

If you have 8mm aluminum axles (same diameter as a #2 pencil), you can remove bearings by prying them out with the metal hex-end of the K-Tool. Be sure not to dent the flat shield on the bearing. Okay, now take them all out. Get a clean paper towel and really polish them up. Make them shine! Turn them with your fingers. If it feels like there is grit in there, now is a good time to replace them. Push cleaned or new bearings back into the wheel hubs with their spacers.

NOW FOR THE WHEELS:

Please note the side that has the printed graphic on it, while keeping the wheels in order. On new skates, the graphic started out life facing the outside of the skate. It will soon be transferred so that it is facing the inside and moved to another position on the frame.

WHEEL ROTATION & REASSEMBLY!

Same Size Wheel Configurations: The front wheel, we'll call it #1, should be swapped with the #3 wheel, with the graphic now facing the inside. The #2 wheel should be swapped with the #4 wheel. You can do this on the same skate or swap wheel from the left skate over to the right skate - your choice.

HiLo Wheel Configurations: Some K2 Inline Skates have two different size wheels therefore they require a slightly different rotation pattern. Using a criss-crossing pattern as listed above swap the #1 wheel the #2 on the opposite skate and the #3 wheel with the #4 wheel on the opposite skate.

You’ve completed skate maintenance, now tighten those axles, and go have fun!

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